Thursday, September 20, 2018

CHOPIN"S FINAL DAYS

My first piano recital piece—I was 9 years old—was Chopin's prelude in C# minor, Opus 28, No.7 When I returned to the formal study of the piano in retirement I kept running into Chopin.  The first time was during the marvelous 2000 exhibit, "Piano 300," on the history of the piano at the Smithsonian in Washington, DC. which I explored three times in as many days.  Among so many other treasures in that exhibit were compositions, some in their own hand, some by copyists, of Mozart, Liszt, Haydn, Gershwin, and Chopin.  The most beautiful handwriting of all was Chopin's.  Each page of his composition on display, the Impromptu in G flat major, op 51, was a work of art.         
          I began reading biographies of Chopin, the best of which I found to be Siepmann’s Chopin, the Reluctant Romantic. The book was so good I read it twice and the second time made many notes.  But it was mostly in Paris, the city in which he spent much of his short life, that I kept running into Frederick Francois Chopin. I sought out and visited his residences, including the one on the Place Vendome near my office where he died.  I ran into Chopin again as I walked above the quays of the Left Bank.  I looked up at the delicate steeple of Saint Chapelle and up river to a clear view of Notre Dame in the near distance.  Crowds of tourists milled around the green stalls of book and print vendors, babbling in many languages, taking pleasure in the warmth and sunlight and the boats and the architectural beauty of the grand buildings along the Seine.  Sunlight flooded the western tip of the island that is in the heart of Paris, the Isle de la Cite.
          I looked for Chopin portraits and books among the stalls. =I was below the Pont Neuf Bridge and not far from the Place St. Michel.  A vendor in his late 40s with a full but neatly trimmed salt and pepper beard had just finished unloading the contents of the green metal box that held his wares and was fussing over their arrangement.  Propped up in front of rows of his old books was a full-length portrait, not more than seven inches tall.  It had the greenish tints found in some old daguerreotypes and was clearly authentic 19th Century. The face looked familiar.  "Chopin," the vendor said.  He was now standing beside me.

"A daguerreotype.  Taken in 1849, a few weeks before he died at age 39."  

          In the photo Chopin is in the final stages of tuberculosis.  It wasn't any Chopin I had ever seen, certainly not the young, frail handsome romantic. He looked old and tired, with dark circles under his eyes. He seemed to be barely holding on to life and perhaps was surprised at what the disease was doing to his body.  Death, I thought, already has her arms around him.  Perhaps the vendor saw the dismay in my face.
"Look at his eyes." he said.  "Look at the soul in his eyes and he hummed a brief passage from one of Chopin's works.  Such beauty!"       
          But I saw pain where the vendor saw beauty in the face of the man who composed such exquisite music.  I walked away but I could not forget that portrait as I sat in a cafe on Place St. Michel with an espresso coffee, thinking about the photo.  I liked it very much, I said to myself, and it is not expensive.  But could I live with it?  I finally decided no, I could not.   
          Chopin requested Mozart's requiem mass be performed at his funeral service.  The funeral was delayed because there were major parts for female voices in Mozart's mass and the Madeleine had never permitted female singers in its choir.  The church relented on the condition that the women would be invisible behind a black velvet curtain.   Also played at his funeral were Chopin's preludes Opus 28, No 4 in E minor and No 6 in B minor, both mournful keys.   Chopin's funeral was the first public funeral in the temple built by Napoleon as a monument to his victorious armies that later became a church, the Madeleine.  Thousands followed the Chopin funeral cortege, walking from the Madeleine to Pere Lachaise cemetery where he was buried. 
     For some months I walked frequently from my office across the northern edge of the  Place de la Concorde and up the rue Royale to the Madeleine.  I walked through bouquets of flowers on the lower steps and trotted up into the church almost every day to spend a few minutes remembering Chopin and my French assistant, Anne Marie-Migeot.  For two and one half years Anne-Marie and I were the USIS Paris support for our regional offices in the major consular cities in France.  We had endured much frustration in a poorly organized USIS program together.  Anne-Marie died at 47, quite unexpectedly, while visiting her brother in Brazil. While at the beach.  A blood clot on the brain.  Anne-Marie occasionally complained of migraine headaches but there were no other symptoms or warning signs.  We were all in shock.  Anne-Marie's funeral mass was held at the Madeleine. Gabriel Faure's much-loved requiem was first performed in the Madeleine for a funeral mass in l888 and he became the organist at that church from 1896 to 1905. 
          

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